FAQs

Water hammer can be caused by trapped air within the properties mains water pipework, it is first recommended that you isolate the water supply at the properties main stop cock and drain down the water by opening all taps and flushing toilets starting with the highest and working to the lowest, then turn the water supply back on at the properties main stop cock and  vent any unwanted air from the pipework, starting by carefully opening the lowest tap(s) and working to the highest until a free flow of water can be observed from each tap, the toilet cisterns will re-fill and should then be flushed, then check for Water hammer, if the Water hammer problem persists we would recommend fitting a water hammer arrester.

There are 3 possible causes;

• a build up of debris or limescale inside the system
• the fill valve could need replacing
• water pressure has reduced

Firstly, flush any debris from the valve and water system. If the issue persists, repair the fill valve or replace it with a compatible model for your cistern.

If your toilet is flushing when no-one has pressed the flush, it could be that your toilet is losing water. Also, the fill valve may start flowing by itself so it may need cleaning. If you can hear a hissing noise, you probably have a blockage. Remove and clean the fill valve. If you can hear banging after flushing, there's an obstruction or air in the system to the flow path of the water. Turn off the water supply, flush the cistern and clear out to remove the obstruction.

This can be caused by the flush valve or syphon not opening. Or it could be that the cistern has not filled and there is not any water to flush.

You can fix this by replacing or moving the float ball, as it may be sitting too high. Overflowing toilets can also be caused by damaged or dirty refill valves.

Also called a 'Leaky Loo'. The problem will either be with the flush value or the fill valve. Is the water level rising and falling into the overflow pipe? If it is, your fill valve might need cleaning or replacing. Check the flush valve. You may need to replace the rubber seal if it is damaged. If this doesn't stop the trickling, you may need to replace the flush valve.

Check if there are any blockages. Clean the rim feed and jet holes. This can break down limescales and restore the flush to full strength. Check if there's a decreased water level. If your water level is not filled to the marked water line or is more than 2.5cm below the overflow pipe, this may be causing the problem.

A concealed cistern is a cistern hidden behind the wall of your bathroom, which enables the toilet pan to sit flush against the wall. The concealed cistern comes in two main forms: the fully concealed cistern based within a partition wall, and a furniture-based version in which the toilet cistern is hidden in a furniture or storage unit.

Ghost flushing happens when water leaks out of the tank over a long period of time. This leak is usually caused by the breakdown of your toilet flapper, which slowly allows water to leak into the bowl which causes the toilet to flush on its own.

Unfortunately, most new toilet cisterns, supplied with a flushing valve, are unable to be converted for use with a Flushing Syphon. This is due to the fact that these cisterns are not supplied with a front lever hole, which would be needed to operate the Flushing Syphon.

The Turbo Edge toilet syphon has a very easy to activate flushing mechanism that makes it easy to flush for the young, old and people with disabilities.

The operation of the dual flush toilet syphon, is to flush and release the lever to give you a full flush, and to flush and hold the lever down, to give you a reduced flush. By holding the lever down, this lifts up two washers (one small blue plastic and one small black rubber) that are located immediately below the metal C link. When these washers are lifted up, this allows air to enter the syphon and breaks the syphonic action, the water level in the cistern will drop to just below the top of the syphon body, therefore giving you a reduced flush.

A toilet syphon will internally overflow when the water level within the cistern reaches the spillover point. The water will trickle over the spillover point, and run down the downleg of the toilet syphon, and into the toilet bowl.

A syphon can be used as an internal overflow device, as long as the spill over point of the syphon is below any other external hole within the cistern body, normally the lever hole.

A toilet syphon is measured from the bottom flange of the threaded tail, to the spill over point of the toilet syphon, this is the effective height of the toilet syphon. When choosing a toilet syphon the height stated will be the height to the spill over point and not the overall height of the toilet syphon (i.e. an 8” toilet syphon would be 8” to the spill over, whereas the overall height would be 10”)

These are to reduce the flush volume of the syphon within the cistern. By removing the plugs you will reduce the volume of water supplied on the full flush. If no plugs are removed, the water in the cistern will drop to the bottom of the syphon body. If the bottom plug is removed, the water in the cistern will only drop to this level. If the top plug is removed, the water in the cistern will only drop to this level.

If a Hydroflo inlet valve is not closing off, it may only need for the diaphragm washer and filter to be cleaned. Remove the large white nut attached to the float arm, This will give you access to the diaphragm washer, remove the washer, and clean with running water. To remove the filter, use the white key stored on top of the blue overhead discharge nozzle. This has a Bayonet fitting to help remove the filter unit. Clean the filter of any dirt and debris. Replace the cleaned filter and diaphragm washer, and re-assemble the unit.

Our current range of fully compliant Hydroflo toilet cistern inlet valves, come pre-fitted with a flow regulator, so no need for a flow restrictor. Our previous range were supplied with a flow restrictor, which needed to be removed for water pressures below 1.5 bar. As these inlet valves operate on an equilibrium principle, which uses the supply water pressure against itself to operate the valve they are suitable for use on water pressures between 0.1 bar and 14 bar.

This could be for one of two reasons. Either the Niagara Flushing Valve Unit is not sealing off after flushing, or the Hydroflo Inlet Valve is not closing off, causing the cistern to internally overflow. Remove the flushing unit from the cistern, by turning 90 degrees anti-clockwise, this will release the unit from its bayonet fitting, Remove the unit from the cistern. Check that the rubber seal on the bottom of the valve, is clear of any debris or limescale, and that the seal is in good condition. Replace if needed, spares part number 323306. Ensure that the white cage that this units sits in within the cistern, is also cleaned of any debris or limescale. Remove the top cap by releasing the two clips on the side of the valve, check that all of the pistons and lift rods etc. are clean of any debris or limescale, and that they are operating freely. Check that the bellows are fully seated within the valve, cover the bellows with you thumb and give them a push down to ensure that they are fully seated. Reassemble the unit and refit into the cistern. Check that the unit is now working all ok. If needed the Niagara Flushing Valve can be replaced. Spares part number 327628. Hydroflo Inlet Valve Isolate the water supply to the cistern, unclip the Hydroflo Inlet Valve from the retaining clip at the back of the cistern. Remove the unit from the cistern. Remove the white front nut, remove the diaphragm washer, wash out the diaphragm in clean water, ensuring that it is clean of any debris or limescale. Use the white key on top of the blue overhead discharge nozzle, to remove the filter from the inlet valve. Wash out the filter and ensure that this is clear of any debris or limescale. Replace both the filter and the diaphragm washer, refit the white front nut. Ensure that the float arm is fully clipped into place on the front nut. Refit the inlet valve into the cistern and clip back into place. Adjust the float to ensure that the water is at the correct level within the cistern. Check that the inlet valve is now working all ok. If needed the Hydroflo Inlet Valve can be replaced, Spares part number 334686.

We offer a range of push buttons and push plates, most of which are compatible with the Vantage & Miniflo cisterns. Please visit our buttons and pushplates section of our website to find out more.

We use the Dudley Hydroflo Side Supply Inlet Valve in the Vantage cistern. However, as this unit is clipped into the back of the cistern, this needs to be a plastic tailed version (do not use the brass tailed version). The latest fully compliant unit that we use in the Vantage is the Hydroflo Compact Side Supply Plastic Tail (Part Number 334686) which is compatible with any previous Vantage cistern that we have manufactured.

The Dudley Resan® range of sanitaryware has been successfully used within most market sectors from prisons and custodial establishments to education, mental health and retail.

No, to install the Basin Waste Seal Kit you will not need any paint, putty or mastic. it is extremely simple to install and requires little DIY knowledge.

Dezincification-resistant brass fittings are specifically designed for use in applications that deliver water for human consumption.

Concealed cisterns are a great way to hide a toilet cistern behind a wall or panelling. Modern bathroom designs incorporate sleek looks and utilise space and light. A toilet using a concealed cistern provides plenty of possibilities when planning a new bathroom.

Dudley offer a full range of high quality concealed cisterns including the Dudley Vantage, OSMO T1 and the OSMO F1 which is the worlds first front access syphon cistern.

Yes, the majority of our range of Dudley concealed cisterns will allow a flush handle to be used.

Usually yes. Dudley offer a full range of frames that match our range of concealed cisterns.